7 minutes read

Everyone says gentle and clean, and customers stop hearing anyone

The natural cosmetics market is clogged by shared language, not by weak products.

Sinh Vũ · Creative DirectorCosmetics industry

Quick summary

When every brand uses the same language of ‘gentle, clean, chemical-free’, customers can no longer tell one from another. The way out is not to speak better, but to let customers see the difference through clear visual signals and verifiable third-party evidence.

In this article · 6 sections

The all-natural cosmetics market in Vietnam does not lack good products. What it lacks is a way for customers to see the difference.

When every brand writes “gentle, all-natural, chemical-free,” that language loses its power to distinguish. Customers stop listening. They look at the price.

Why language gets stuck

“All-natural” used to be a differentiating signal. Now it is the price of entry for the whole segment, no longer a reason to choose one particular brand.

Marty Neumeier wrote: “A brand is a customer's gut feeling, not a logo or a tagline.” When the perception of every brand in a segment is the same, no brand truly exists in the customer's mind.

A brand is not what you say about yourself. It is what others say about you when you are not in the room.

Marty Neumeier, The Brand Gap

The problem isn't that brands say the wrong thing. It's that they all say the same thing, so customers have no reason left to tell them apart.

~80%The share of new cosmetics products that fail within their first 12 months on the market. Source: industry estimate from Nielsen CPG.

The invisible language trap

The generic-language trap does not arrive loudly. It forms when the team writes the brief based on what competitors have already said, and everyone in the meeting room nods because it sounds familiar.

The result is a tagline no one objects to and no one remembers.

Byron Sharp, in How Brands Grow, points out that what decides whether customers remember a brand is distinctive brand assets, not the best message.

That asset must be distinctive and different enough for the human brain to link it to a specific brand at the moment of purchase.

The language of “gentle, clean” does not meet that standard, because it belongs to no one.

Over 1.3 billion USDThe value of cosmetics imported into Vietnam rose 17% compared with last year. Domestic products hold less than 10% of the market. Source: Vietnam customs data, compiled 2024.

Visual signals do what language cannot

Language has to be read. Visual signals work before customers have time to read.

Research by Lindgaard and colleagues (published in Behaviour and Information Technology, 2006) shows that visual impressions form within about 50 milliseconds, much faster than the human brain processes text.

It means that by the time a product reaches the shelf, the packaging has already finished speaking before the customer gets to read the words "chemical-free."

Effective visual signals in the cosmetics industry usually include:

  • A clearly owned color palette that doesn't overlap with any competitor in the same price segment.
  • Typography so consistent that customers recognize the brand before they see its name.
  • A way of presenting ingredients or sourcing directly on the packaging, not only on the website.
  • Product imagery for digital channels (social commerce) is designed specifically for them, not shared with shelf photography.

This isn't a list to complete in full. It's a list to help you see which gap matters most.

Specific proof instead of generic promises

When language no longer tells brands apart, proof becomes the weapon.

Proof is not writing “100% natural ingredients” in bigger letters. Proof is something customers can check without having to trust what the brand says about itself.

Three types of proof work in the Vietnamese cosmetics industry today:

  • Third-party certifications that can be looked up: Leaping Bunny, PETA, and vegan certification from international organizations. Cocoon is a domestic example of a brand that has done this, with a 95.1% share of the sheet mask segment within its own product line, according to figures published internally by the brand.
  • The origin of ingredients can be tied to specific places: macadamia butter from Đắk Lắk, coconut oil from Bến Tre, mineral mud from Tháp Chàm. A local story cannot be copied by a foreign brand.
  • Ingredient transparency in the way The Ordinary has done it: listing the active ingredient names and concentrations right on the packaging, instead of using vague commercial names.
38%The higher price that customers are willing to pay for a brand is perceived as "meaningful and distinct." Source: Kantar BrandZ.
Cocoon's 95.1% sheet mask market share is a self-reported figure from the brand, and has not been verified by an independent measurement organization. Sinh Vũ cites it with that caveat to be transparent with readers.

Cocoon and Thorakao: two paths from the same market

Two Vietnamese brands, in the same natural segment, with clearly different results. This is not a lesson about who is right or wrong, but a lesson about the identity system.

Thorakao has a long history and a trusted product formula.

But the packaging and brand language haven't kept pace with digital channels, so the product looks dated on a phone screen even though its quality hasn't changed.

Cocoon chose the opposite direction: minimalist design for the digital shelf, a regional ingredient story that can be retold, and international certifications that can be looked up.

The result is a rare Vietnamese brand that competes in a segment where imports hold more than 90% of the market.

The difference is not the product formula. The difference is the system of visual signals and proof that customers see before they buy.

Where to start if your brand is stuck

The question is not “how do we talk better about being gentle and clean.” The right question is: “When a customer looks at your product for three seconds, what do they see that's different from your competitors?”

If the answer is “not much,” then the problem lies neither in the product nor in the message. The problem is that the system of identity signals has not been built.

Three specific things you can do right now:

  • Photograph your packaging next to five direct competitors and look at that photo. If you cover the names and can't tell them apart, that is a signal to act.
  • Check whether the brand has a visual identity asset that customers remember even when they can't see the name, such as a signature color, typeface or pattern.
  • Review your product page: what percentage of the content is the brand speaking about itself, and how much is proof that customers can check independently?

The all-natural cosmetics market will not get less crowded. But a brand with a clear system of signals does not need the market to thin out in order to survive.

References

Marty Neumeier, The Brand Gap. Byron Sharp, How Brands Grow. Romaniuk, Building Distinctive Brand Assets. Market data: McKinsey Beauty Market Outlook 2023; Mintel Natural Beauty Consumer Trends 2024.

Frequently asked questions

Do third-party certifications like Leaping Bunny or PETA actually help you sell?

Certification does not sell on its own, but it turns a brand's promise into evidence that customers can check independently. In a Vietnamese cosmetics market that has seen a counterfeit case involving more than 100,000 orders in Bắc Giang, a third-party signal carries more weight than any tagline a brand writes for itself.

Does minimalist packaging like The Ordinary's suit Vietnamese brands?

Minimalism is only one direction, not a formula. What The Ordinary does well is use packaging to express its commitment to ingredient transparency. Vietnamese brands can do something similar with their own visual language, for example drawing on regional ingredients or domestic production processes, as long as the signal is visible and consistent.

If your budget is limited, should you invest in packaging or in communication content first?

Packaging first, because it is the only brand signal that works without a constant advertising budget. Every time a product sits on a shelf or appears in a photo a customer posts, the packaging is doing its job. Content amplifies what the packaging has already said. If the packaging has said nothing clear, the content has nothing to amplify.