Perspectives · Cosmetics Industry

The same SKU, two briefs completely different

Packaging that is readable in one second on vertical video and packaging that is readable under fluorescent pharmacy lights are not the same design challenge.

Quick summary

TikTok Shop and pharmacies are two opposing visual environments. One is a vertical 9:16 screen playing for one second, while the other is a shelf under fluorescent lights with customers picking up bottles to read carefully. The same SKU, but if using the same identity system, the packaging will fail in at least one channel. The design brief needs to clearly identify the main channel before deciding anything about color, text, or layout.

The packaging of the same serum bottle may sell well on TikTok Shop but sit still on pharmacy shelves, or vice versa. This is not due to different products. It is because these two channels impose completely opposing visual conditions on the same physical surface. If the design brief does not start with the question "in what situation do customers encounter this packaging," every subsequent decision about color, text, and layout will be based on incorrect assumptions.

One second vertical video: the single highlight challenge

TikTok Shop does not sell in the way people flip packaging to read. Products appear in a 9:16 video stream, often taking up no more than 20-30% of the frame, playing for one to three seconds before the algorithm switches to the next clip. The human eye cannot read the brand name, product name, and function all at once. Only one of those three can be read; the rest is noise.

The Gestalt principle of visual hierarchy explains why: the brain processes shapes and colors before text, and only "reads" the highest contrast item in the central viewing area. On a phone screen with a resolution of 400ppi but a bottle size only as big as a finger, text smaller than 14pt effectively becomes texture, no longer text.

The brief for the TikTok channel therefore needs to identify one and only one focal point that can be read in one second. This could be the brand name, product name, or a benefit phrase of no more than three words. Everything else serves that focal point, not competes with it.

50 millisecondsThe time the brain takes to form a first visual impression of a new interface or surface. Source: Lindgaard et al., Behaviour & Information Technology, 2006.
72%Consumers in the U.S. report that packaging design influences their purchasing decisions. Source: Ipsos, Packaging and Purchase Decisions, 2022.

Pharmacy shelves under fluorescent lights: the physical reliability challenge

The pharmacy is a completely different visual environment. Customers do not scroll; they stop. They pick up the bottle, tilt it under fluorescent lights of 3500 to 4000 Kelvin, where cool white light tends to flatten warm colors and increase glare on glossy surfaces. A bottle that looks luxurious under the warm LED lights of a studio may appear pale and lack depth under the fluorescent lights of a pharmacy.

Here, there are two layers of readers with different needs. Pharmacists need to quickly find the active ingredient, concentration, and expiration date. End customers need to understand what type of skin the product is for, how to use it, and whether it is trustworthy. "Trustworthy" in a pharmacy is conveyed through clear small text, organized layout, and sufficient information on the back according to regulations. Packaging that lacks information or has a chaotic layout is defaulted to being cheap or of unclear origin.

This is why cosmetic brands distributed through pharmacies, like La Roche-Posay or Bioderma, may appear "boring" on TikTok but sell very well in offline channels. Their layout is optimized for pharmacy lighting and careful readers, not for those scrolling through videos.

Typography is what language looks like.

Ellen Lupton, Thinking with Type

This statement has practical meaning in this context: the same content arranged differently will convey different signals of credibility. Small sans-serif fonts, tight line spacing on the back of pharmacy bottles read at an angle present a legibility issue. Fonts that are too thin, while beautiful on screen, will disappear when glare hits the glossy surface.

The same SKU: what is really different in the brief

It’s not about the logo or the brand colors. These elements must be consistent to have long-term recognition value, as per Romaniuk's principle of distinctive brand assets: recognition assets only help customers remember the brand when consistently repeated across channels.

What changes by channel is the hierarchy of information, the ratio of layout areas, and the choice of material surface. Specifically:

  • Information hierarchy: TikTok needs one focal point at the largest size, with everything else pushed back. Pharmacies need three to four layers of clear information: brand name, product name, main benefits, ingredients, and usage instructions.
  • Front layout ratio: video channels prioritize a large color block with minimalist text. Pharmacy shelves allow for a thicker layout because customers have time to look closely.
  • Material surface: local UV gloss looks great in studio photos but creates unpleasant reflections under fluorescent lights. Matte or soft-touch finishes perform better in pharmacies, while gloss captures light better under the warm lights of unboxing videos.
  • White space: on TikTok, white space conveys luxury and helps the eye focus. In pharmacies, too much white space is read as a lack of information, raising doubts.

Common trap: designing for studio photos, not for the channel

Most cosmetic briefs that the studio receives describe the product without describing the sales environment. Clients send reference images of brands that look luxurious on Instagram, often from Korea or Europe, but the actual distribution channels are TikTok Shop and a few local pharmacies. As a result, the packaging looks beautiful in flat photos but disappears in video streams and appears lacking in information when a pharmacist picks it up to ask a customer.

This is not an aesthetic error. This is a brief error. A brief that does not specify the main sales channel essentially asks for packaging design that does not exist anywhere. There is no real environment, no real readers, no real light. And packaging designed in that vacuum will fail in the truest sense of the word "vacuum": it has no force to hold anything.

80%New cosmetic products fail within the first 12 months of hitting the market. Source: Nielsen, Innovation Report, 2023.
The figure of 80% is an aggregate estimate from Nielsen's CPG (consumer packaged goods) industry data on the global market, not specifically broken down for Vietnamese cosmetics. The actual rate in each market depends on distribution scale, marketing budget, and the level of competition in the category. Use this figure as a trend indicator, not a constant.

When to need two packaging versions instead of one

The practical question that brand owners need to answer: which channel contributes the most to current revenue, and which channel is the target for expansion? If TikTok Shop is the primary channel and pharmacies are the secondary channel being tested, then the packaging should be optimized for TikTok first, and then adjusted for pharmacies later. Not the other way around.

In cases where both channels carry equal weight, the correct solution is to create two design versions. Both share the same color system and identity shapes but differ in information hierarchy and surface finish. The cost of making two versions is not significantly higher if planned from the start, but it will be exponentially more expensive if redone after mass printing.

A good brief for a multi-channel problem needs to answer seven questions before starting the design concept. These are: what is the main sales channel, under what lighting conditions and distance do customers encounter the packaging, what is the average contact time, what information is mandatory by regulation, what information is the main selling point, what identity assets have been built and cannot be changed, and what signal does the packaging need to convey about the price segment. These seven questions serve as a problem-solving map, not an administrative questionnaire.

References

Ipsos, "Packaging and Purchase Decisions", 2022. Nielsen, "Innovation Report", 2023. Lindgaard et al., "Attention web designers: You have 50 milliseconds", Behaviour & Information Technology, 2006. Ellen Lupton, Thinking with Type, 2010. Byron Sharp, How Brands Grow, Oxford University Press, 2010.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use one packaging set for both TikTok Shop and pharmacies?

Technically, yes, but you will have to compromise on both ends. Packaging optimized for pharmacy shelves often contains more information and layers of layout, while TikTok needs a single highlight that can be read in one second. The practical approach is to maintain the same color tone and identity shapes, but adjust the hierarchy of information and font size according to each channel.

The TikTok Shop channel changes quickly; is it worth investing in separate packaging?

The better question is: where is your current packaging failing, and how much is that failure costing? If the product is performing well on TikTok due to video content but has a low repurchase rate, that is often a sign that the packaging is not strong enough when customers receive it. Investing in packaging does not require a complete overhaul: sometimes, simply adjusting the front layout and increasing the size of a single highlight is enough.

Does the pharmacy have any special requirements for packaging compared to the e-commerce channel?

The pharmacy has two layers of readers: pharmacists and end customers. Pharmacists need to quickly find the active ingredient, concentration, and expiration date. End customers read under fluorescent lights of 3500-4000K, often holding the bottle and tilting it. This requires a minimum contrast ratio of 4.5:1 according to WCAG standards, a font size no smaller than 7pt for supplementary information, and a non-glossy surface to avoid glare. E-commerce does not have this physical pressure but requires flat overhead shots or clear short videos from a distance.

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